Cyber-Hand's Forge

Think you could ever do a transblue mask of water for those of us who don’t have $1000 to spend on an exclusive mask? :stuck_out_tongue: Beeteedubs That protector mold turned out really nice!

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Your first argument is the most logical.

The concept art for the masks of G2 generally get more simplified as they start to make the actual physical representations. And they got to somewhat match the general aethestics as with the other masks. Things get more rounded, edges get more beveled, etc.

This is why, for G2, one shouldn’t take the concept art as 1:1 fact when taking them from concept to product.

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Hey someone’s doing that thing you were going to do

Where did you put the sprue?

this should be called “Shapeways Masks” now that there are more things rather than only the MoUP

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Or “The @Cyber-Hand is a genuinely awesome person and people should buy all his masks” board. :smiley:

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First off, your combined vahi looks amazing! No joke perfect I wouldn’t change a thing about it.

I’m wondering which concept masks you are planning on making from the art book? I just would like to know because I want to purchase all of your creations but I want to buy them in one ■■■■■■■■

Hey @Cyber-Hand did you ever post any suggestions on how to smooth the strong and flexible plastic from shapeways? I’d like to smooth my MoC before painting it.

Just use sandpaper, sillly. :stuck_out_tongue:

Its no problem, if these boards are anything like the others i have been on I should be able to change it by editing the first post.

I can definitely try to do that, the hardest part would be making sure the blue tint is consistent. I am also a little worried that some people might by one off me for $15, and then try to sell it as the real thing for $1000.

there is never anyway for an artist to perfectly draw something that will translate to a perfect reference for a 3d model. What can look good in a 3d drawing might look weird when turned into 3d. Small changes will always need to be made to make the model look its best. I would put up some images and explain what I mean but I don’t want to make this post too long.

After I made the mold, I took an old radio antennae and cut off a middle section of the tube. I then filed the end into a sharp needle point and pierced several holes for the air to escape through.


I need to remember to clean them out each time before I reused the mold. several of my attempts have ended with air bubbles from me forgetting to do it in my excitement.

I like both of these Ideas. Though I think I will rename if to “Cyber Hands Forge” since it is really only my products that are getting discussed here. With the exception of people bring up other shapeways masks and asking me to make a better version of it. [quote=“cabbieboy, post:620, topic:27337, full:true”]
Hey @Cyber-Hand did you ever post any suggestions on how to smooth the strong and flexible plastic from shapeways? I’d like to smooth my MoC before painting it.
[/quote]

I know, I have been saying I will put out a tutorial for doing that for quite a while now. I have set time aside for making that tomorrow. It will show you how I got about smoothing my prints and making them nice and shiny.

Ahaha, I love how some people are fine with the mask design and others can’t stand it. I guess it takes all types to make this world an interesting place.
as for how many I am planning to make. Probably about 5 or 6. I like several of Tahu’s masks, and that one I posted before of the MoUP concept, and a golden one of Umarak’s.

Here are all the test pieces I have done so far.


The far left is the original the rest are casts I have done with different coloring techniques; Auric gold, gold powder, natural, antique silver powder, and clear resin. I am going to have to look into getting another resin since the two I currently have are too soft

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Just a quick questionL What plastic are you making those out of? It sure looks a LOT like Lego’s official plastic.

Also, remember when I asked about the MoUP and if I could get it when you start selling them? Well, I have enough money secured for it, so most definitely put me on the list if you haven’t already.

Keep up the good work Cyber-Hand!!!

The clear one is an epoxy resin, the rest are a Polyurethane resin. But both are a lot softer than I thought. Like you are easily able to bend them in your fingers and they won’t fit snugly on the head.

I will put you down for a Resin MoUP. Once I find a suitable resin. I will get in contact with my friends that do gunpla. They have a bit more experience with this sort of craft than I do.

I plan to going to have some fun in the coming weeks working on new masks and testing resins.

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Thanks! I already sent you my information, so just let me know!

I’d recommend finding a way to make molds more definitive for the future, by which I mean reducing the resin bleed so it’s easier to clean them up, I say this because the protector masks don’t have any eyes, and I imagine it being a pain to remove the overflow from the tiny holes.
I’d imagine the easiest fix is to make the ‘struts’(the negative holes) go further into the other side of the mold.
Looks like it’s coming along nicely nonetheless.

So I bought Vahi without covered mouth (as I think it’s more accurate, and since we don’t get more pics for better version) in White Strong & Flexible Polished, as there is 20% off for select plastics. And I’m going to paint it with Citadel’s Auric Gold.

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To fix that, make a modification to the mask that is easily recognizeable, and inform communities that masks with that modification are replicas. There are several ways to avoid them being resold.

Its k i got this

edited title. robbie rotten

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but caleb

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###Edited title - Kan.

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Ah… i didn’t actually see that

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Just a question:

Is the “final” version of the MOUP currently on Shapeays? From the 3D image it’s a bit hard to tell.

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