I mean RX-78-2 Revive is godlike…
In my opinion, $20 isn’t a lot for what you’re getting, which is a ridiculously posable kit. That’s just my opinion, though. 
1/100 is good if that’s what you’re into, I prefer the 1/144 scale for reasons, but 1/100 is coolio. Costs a bit more tho, so be prepared for that.
Didn’t the Gyan also offer this at about $12…
Yeah sure, and the RX offered it at $10
I’m saying that I think that $20 is a decent price for these
Heck when I got into Gunpla I thought I was gonna be paying $30+ for each kit, but it’s not, it’s an average of I’d say $15 (at least on Amazon), which is really really really cheap, and is part of the reason why the hobby is so addicting.
@RaptorTalon, just get whatever kit looks good to you, as long as it’s not a Gusion. If you can handle a 1/100 then you’ll be fine with whatever, I think.
Ehh, I’ll disagree. Firstly HG’s are tiny, I refuse to buy them because they are too small for me. At near $20, add just a bit more and you could get a 1/100 NG kit that’s all around better. As far as posability goes, I mean yeah that’s valid until you look at other kits in the HG line. For all intents and purposes the transient is comparably overpriced in reference to other HG kits. Why? Probably because they knew it was a neat design and could get away with milking it some.
HG IBO is overly reliant on stickers and could’ve been remedied if they didn’t try to force the frame concept, which while neat, got old as it was recycled over and over and over. They also tend to have issues with proporions.
This is the exact same reason stuff like the Meijin’s suits gets marked up so high. People are going to buy it anyways, so why not raise the price?
Yeah like
literally recycled
it was a story element that every single Gundam used the exact same freaking frame
I don’t think I’ve seen anyone who’s said one of the 1/100s has a flaw that the HG does not.
I’m not entirely certain what we’re disagreeing on
The transient is technically overpriced, sure
Also yeah 1/100s are objectively better, I simply prefer the 1/144 scale for PURELY SUBJECTIVE REASONS
And yeah IBO is very reliant on the frames. It’s a neat idea, I just wish that there would be more variety. I do enjoy how they look, though, and I feel I’m getting what I pay for, but I can’t speak for everyone here with that
that also just so happens to make most designs structurally unstable and finnicky
see that’s the thing
they’re intentionally cheap
You get what you pay for, but what you’re paying for isn’t exactly a great product. It’s the same reason the accessory packs exist, to make the kits cheaper but making you buy extra packs if you really want a full arsenal.
Not to seem defensive, and I may be interpereting your comment wrongly; but:
I get why it happens, it’s just poor for the end comsumer, that’s all.
I never watched IBO in full, but in the end it’s a show made to sell merchandise. (doesn’t mean it can’t be good, I personally disliked it but loved Thunderbolt, The Origin, and Unicorn OVA’s) They didn’t have to reuse parts. I guess it cut down on their price, but comparing to other HG’s that isn’t super apparent.
Not my point. My point was, in the case of the Transient, you could spend a bit more for an all around better kit.
No I completely agree
I think you hit the nail on the head with your first post.
Nothing in that post was in disagreement to what you said.
Confusion abounds
Hey it’s me again and I have more questions:
Depends on what you’re using. Most lacquer sprays take around 10-15 minutes for me.
It can usually act as a top coat. It probably depends on the brand but it’s always worked for me.[quote=“ELE109, post:296, topic:7580”]
3.whats the difference between top coat and clear coat?
[/quote]
Literally nothing.
Clear coat is a form of topcoat. There’s two different finishes for topcoat: matte and clear/shiny. Which one you use is a matter of personal preference, but it is recommended that if you’ll be applying waterslides on a painted kit that you paint, clear coat, apply, and then go with whatever finish you want.
I know this was thoroughly explained somewhere on this site, here I believe, but since I’m getting some Warhammer 40k crimson chins, how do I thin paints?
Paint thinner
But is there a more reliable brand or something?
Paint thinner is mere reliable in my experience.
Oh, I don’t actually know. It just seemed like an opportunity to make a joke. I think you can just use water for acrylic paint. Some paints come super thin.
Citadel paints are quality water-based acrylic paints and can be thinned with water. Alternatively you can use isopropyl alcohol but that causes the paint to dry quicker. Be sure not to add water directly in the can; you can get exactly right consistency if you thin your paints on a palette.