sup in kinda new to mocing been doing it for almost a year and wanted to show in my opinion a great torso for bulky mocs heres the finished product on my self moc sylok
First off get these parts made up beforehand
the lower part dont really need explaining the hand piece is for if you want waist articulation
Next add one of the parts from befor as well as the armour
Add the pieces from befor to an Inika upper chest piece
connect the 2 parts together
now make these up (the 2 gray p[arts go on the back of the hana crab body
lock it in using 2 of the rods starting from the back
now add ccbs arms to the connecters as shown
now add these gray parts idk what thay are called and fold all the ccbs limbs into place
last add a ccbs armour add on to the centre of the chest aand there u go. this was from v2 of sylok but the first pic is v3 i think you can change it to match v3 your self i also didnt show you how to armour the back but thats for you to do as i use some illegal techniques becouse i wanted a connector foer shadow matoran as he is a phantoka moc the shadow matoran would become his wings
I need a easy torso that I can do with very limited bricks. And no ball joints (I think that’s what there called, there on the back of about every g2 bionicle set arms).
Trails of Furno and I’m pretty sure it might be shown in a couple others, Stormer fought and disable it back when he was a rookie and it was left as a statue in… Whatever the city is called again, Jangbricks also made it.
But not most. One and four stick out too far to be flush with the mask. Two obstructs the ball joint from underneath. Three doesn’t work with krana due to the position of the stud on krana being between two weird struts and only accepting a single stud piece. Six and seven stick too far back into the balljoint; I actually can’t get seven to work at all on my model. Nine I tried, but it’s loose and the mask is too low to be flush with the top. Five and eight might work, though, but I don’t have the pieces to test them.
Which is part of why I said 5 might work. The problems with the others, though, can’t just be adjusted. There’s nothing to remove from 1 and 4 to make them shorter horizontally; they can only be adjusted vertically. In order to modify 2 for anything less than painful hunchback you have to literally chop the head off the snake. In 3 the dish is physically too wide for krana, and the structure doesn’t make it obious whether this can be fixed. 6 is either too far out or cutting into the balljoint, depending on where you place the mug. 7 is cutting into the balljoint or too high, depending on whether you keep the bushing. 9 is the only one where removing the bushing changes the spacing issue, but the connection is still too loose to work anyway. That still leaves just 5 and 8 as possibly functional.
Right, most of these don’t work unless you make some adjustments and some, like the snake one, don’t work at all. The one I’d go with in an actual moc is the first design I came up with, 8.
Okay, so I just tested a real version of 8. It works great, you just need to remove the 1x1 round tile with bar and just insert the wrench itself into the shell. Cool, that worked out nicely.
So I’m sure that everyone loves Mixel eyes, and wants to know how to incorperate them in everything, so I decided to share some tutorials on how to make some of my Mixel eye heads. Of course, I need to keep some secret so I have an edge, so these are not the one that works on every mask that fits the metru head.