Fantastic! you can fix that friction problem by adding technic bushings in place of the ball joints if anyone is wondering. ALSO HE HAS A BOW ARM!
Clever use of that shark piece.
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Thank you very much. I got the inspiration from 3rdeye when he used a white one for a beard. One week after finishing it and before I could post anything someone else used for for a jaw on a system creation on Flickr.
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We… don’t speak of him.
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Why don’t we talk about Dave Foreman?
It’s kinda controversial with the geezers here, it’s best we don’t converse about it in public.
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The instructions are 8 different kinds of out-of-order.
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I’m happy you like that addition of the bow-arm! Would you like to see how it’s built?
I’ll post some pictures later if you want.
Ok here they are!
Remember that this is the correct build. If you rotate the shooter piece the studs will fly!
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Do you think this would work with a rather large but skinny Toa?
So you may or may not have noticed that I haven’t made a MOC in a while. This is because I simply can’t think of anything to make. So instead I am making a guide to help MOCers get going.
Now before we begin I want to clarify that I do NOT class myself as the best MOCer out there, but I see myself as being proficient enough to give a few tips.
Color scheme:
This is very important on a MOC. It needs to flow, for example a MOC with green, red, yellow and blue armor scattered at random, unless intentional, doesn’t look good. Using only one metallic color is something that I also recommend. Using gold and silver is overkill. Colors that I think match each other well are Any color with gold OR silver, Purple and black, Yellow and black, and Gunmetal with Transparent colors. Experimenting with colors is okay though, like using blue and orange together, or red and green.
Color distribution:
Not to be mistaken with color scheme, the color distribution is the way the colors are laid out. I would recommend using two primary colors, which have equal amounts of pieces, and one secondary color, which has less. A transparent tertiary color, or highlight color is also good. For example:
The primary colors here are Red and silver. The secondary color is black, with a highlight of trans-neon orange.
Matching textures:
This one is difficult, but quite simple in concept. Using CCBS armor shells on the arms and having classic bionicle pieces on the legs is an example of bad texture matching. You need to go either smooth, or rough. New pieces that could be used with older textures are the 2015 rib-cages and the 2015 armor add-ons.
To customize, or not to customize:
Custom torso designs are something that everybody needs, but custom limbs are not essential. Custom torsos are hard to pull off well, mainly because they are often based around taking small parts, and turning them into something big and sturdy. I have recently found that basing a torso around one of the small CCBS torso pieces is a good shout, as it can allow for waist articulation and a good amount of armoring. Also, I know it sounds stupid, but don’t forget to add a connection point for the head.
Proportions:
Human proportions are difficult to stick to, as the old Bionicle and Hero Factory sets didn’t really achieve them. The large HF torso had shoulders 9 units wide, whereas the Inika torso had a huge 11. I recommend sticking to between 5 and 8, for MOCs up to 12 inches. Any bigger MOCs will require wider shoulders. For a humanoid MOC, I wold say that the head should cover 1/8 of the height MOC, the torso should be 3/8, and the legs 4/8. The arms are difficult to measure, but they should end around half way down the thighs, excluding fingers. Last thing, the shoulders should not be too high up, or too low down, but you will have to see what looks right.
Filling in the gaps:
Tires are good for most things, even though they can sacrifice articulation, they make one hell of a difference to the MOC. Adding them to the neck and hips goes unnoticed sometimes, but it really helps. Filling in pin holes is easier than filling in axle holes, because you have the advantage of having studs on you side. Small system pieces work wonders when filling in gaps.
Weapons:
Weapons need to match the colors and textures of the MOC, but apart for that they can really be anything you want.
Declaring the MOC complete:
I often look at my MOCs and think that I could add more, which is sometimes true. Once you can pick up a MOC and not be able to add anything, it’s finished. Filling pin holes and CCBS armor holes for the sake of doing it is bad if it takes away form the aesthetics and makes it look cluttered.
Hope you found this useful
Hafynx
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Great guide!
I think many people often overlook the last point. There are so many MOCs out there where I simply feel that it was assembled just the minute ago and immediately posted.
I personally never post a MOC before I haven’t been happy with the way it is for several days. And believe me when I say this always has turned out to be a good decision.
The one point I would add is just becuase you can add to it doesn’t mean you should. On several of my Mocs I have to fight the temptation to add that one cool looking peice I found while building or putting away. Even if a peice looks wicked and has the same colors as the moc if it would look like it hangs off or doesn’t fit the idea of the moc / out of place don’t add it.
As for weapons depending on factors like backstory they don’t necessarily have to fit the moc. Though remember one thing about the weapons; poles / staffs should have some decent way of storing without having the ends ruin the look.
And one personal piont; if you design a moc with a function test it at several points so the armor and rest of the build will still allow it to work easily. One moc I made I had to take apart and edit because I forgot and the armor I added blocked the function entirely.
I know this post Is old as hell, but this really got me out of a scrape on a moc I am makeing. THANKS MAN.
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Anyone able to help me think of a decent, moderately custom, arm design, not too technic based, for this guy? Preferably with some trans red shells
And improvements on the legs if you think they’re a bit lackluster
@SmeatyFlavor just a standard ball joint connection
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Could we have a picture of the shoulders’ connection points? I can’t see how they attach.
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I don’t have instructions to fit his scale but maybe use the ccbs bones with the holes in them and attach armor and stuff to those.
I’ve had this MOC for a month, and I can’t think of any decent head. My goal is to make a MOC completely out of black pieces. However, I can’t make it a decent head. I would like little to no system. Technic is welcome. Here’s a picture for scale:
This is not a tutorial, but here is a little pick axe/spear/axe I made.
Actually, I lied. It is not very little…
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Would you allow trans colors for the eyes? Cause you can use a mata head in black.