Edit 2: Updated again due to impossible connections. As the commenters have pointed out, there is a possibility some parts of the model will flop around - the issue can be solved by using a rubber band to hold the mask/mask holder and the body together.
Edit 3: Moved the files and changed the Drive sharing link.
“Has the same happy-smile as Makuta. Just what the world needs–a Makuta Fish.”
-Toa Matau
A deadly aquatic Rahi with sharp teeth and unsightly looks. Its real name has been lost to time, but most call it the “Makuta Fish”. Alone, they are formidable enough, but when a school of them catches you, your best hope is to pray to Mata Nui you will reach the shore.
Here is my entry for the Duckbricks Rahi Contest, a model of the canon fish Rahi. I wasn’t initially planning on entering, but then I thought I could at least make a smaller build. The build is inspired by a moc of an unknown author I saw online (Here: Makuta Fish | The C.I.R.C.L.E. Wiki | Fandom). At first I wanted to emulate the angler fish, much like the mentioned moc, but as I went along, I settled on a more traditional fish design. I tried to incorporate the Kraahkan (I used the four hole chin version but it doesn’t really matter which one you use) in a more creative way than some other Makuta Fish mocs, almost all of which use it as the upper jaw/face. As it is, it’s a simple, easy to build design. I hope you like it. Do tell me if you have any comments regarding the build.
Dam, you’re right. The axle-pin connector is clipping right through the liftarm. But what’s weird is that stud.io doesn’t register it as clipping - I checked and it sinks right through. I’ll update it asap.
@TahnokTrapper I have more bad, but also good news.
You’re using a 3l pin with friction where the “arm” that connects to the mask attaches to the body. You can’t do it in real life, you have to use a Pin 3L without Friction Ridges with Stop (part 77765), but you will lose friction, which means that the mask is going to flop around (maybe inserting a 3l bar inside the pin could help?).
I’ve also found a way to position the mask as you intended in the first place (which also lead me to find out that there are some inaccuracies between the stud.io file and the real mask).
@D-E_GOISIS Ah, yeah, it didn’t occur to me that the 3L pin was an impossible connection. Thanks for pointing that out, you’re a real lifesaver. You say the mask might flop with the frictionless pin - if I kept the current mask placement, do you think that would minimize “floppage”? It seems that way to me but the program has lied to me before. Also, in what way is the mask inaccurate? Is it the axle length or something else?
The mask will flop around a little even in the current placement, but you could avoid it with a black turaga rubber band (in true G1 style). Then again I don’t know if inserting a 3l bar in the pin could help to increase friction, since I don’t have that particolar pin to test it myself. Update: from a little research it appears that you can’t insert a bar all the way through in that pin (another time when trusting stud.io will end bad).
It’s the axle length, the fact that the base of the axle is round, and the thickness of the part from where the axle protudes from. Also I may be wrong, but I think that the axle is positioned slitly higher then it is on the real mask. All of the above by a millimeter or less and you wouldn’t be able to tell unless you are holding a real mask and confronting it with the stud.io one.
I’m just here, digging my Razorfish grave, instead of designing an entry for the big category.
Just for the record, which version of the Kraakhan are you referring to when you talk about the axle length? I don’t know for sure if there are any differences between the 4 hole and 6 hole chin versions but I wouldn’t discount it. From what I see, floppage could be limited by the edges of the mask (and the mask holder) striking the roborider liftarm and the little assembly I put on the back - as it is, I’m starting to warm up to the rebuilt version since it’s fatter and therefore fittingly uglier.
As for you Razorfish - I strongly doubt it would be the only build with possibly illegal connections (heck, I’d wager there are far more illegal techniques). You can put a tooth into the square pin hole, right? if it benefits the build, I’d say it’s worth the risk. Alternatively, how would the build look without the lowermost tooth?
Interestingly, I found that part 32054 has different versions, some of which have round pinholes, some square ones.
Oof, I didn’t expect it to be that bad. You know what, I’m just going to fix that impossible connection and leave it. Maybe if I have time I’ll think of something. I don’t really expect to win or get a Moc showcase video and if someone does decide to build it IRL, they can just use a rubber band (or better yet, suggest a rebuild). Even if (if!) I do, it wouldn’t be the first time a digital-first model finalist/winner would need mods to work - the Caltarix from the Bota Magna Contest for example couldn’t actually stand. It’s fine.
In hindsight, I probably should’ve spent more than 30 minutes on this guy.
Hey, I think a white Lego rubber band like in the Dragon bolt set wrapped around the front of the white technic pieces and looped around the hands holding the side fins in place or the back white spikes would do the trick. I would really like to see this Moc in the contest winners.
I’ll update it asap.
