What are your building principles?

LEGO BIONICLE
42
  1. Always go for a custom torso. The limbs can be basic CCBS/Inika build, but the torso must be custom. There are some exceptions, though, like if I’m trying to replicate a specific build (for example, a Mata Build Toa)
  2. Placeholder masks. I never paint pieces unless I absolutely have to, so if I’m making a Toa of Plasma with a Kualsi and the Kualsi doesn’t come in orange or white… give it a mask that does.
  3. Use what you have. If you’re making a character who’s supposed to be orange and tan, don’t give him technic-heavy limbs full of parts that come in neither orange nor tan.
  4. Use red axles when they’re hidden, or when the character is red. Use black axles if they are visible from the front/sides. (ideally this would apply to blue, but the black pin/axle adaptor is so stupidly rare…)
  5. Use 01-07 style Sockets if at all possible. If you must use 08 sockets or CCBS sockets, make sure they match (I.e don’t use an 08 socet for one hand and a CCBS socket for the other hand)
  6. Function follows Form. I don’t want a moc that looks good on a shelf but will fall apart if you try to pose it, or just can’t pose. I actually play with my mocs and pose them, maybe recreate story scenes.
  7. silver is to be avoided unless the character has silver as part of their color scheme or it’s a weapon. In other words, silver armor is fine for a Toa of Iron, but don’t slap silver armor on a Toa of Earth due to a lack of parts
  8. Ekorak must die first in any Mafia game.
  9. If you’re gonna go asymmetrical, go full ham. Only have one orange foot and one white foot? That’s fine, so long as the legs and shoulder pads and arms are mismatched too.
  10. If a design uses a rare and useful moccing piece, at least think if there’s any other option before you use it.
  11. This is the most important rule of all: Tahu MUST be green.
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43

yes
this is exactly my logic

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44

It can only be fragile if it was meant to be fragile.

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45
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46

YES! CLOUT!

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47

Great. Rip the poor joints

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48

The joints are actually fine surprisingly

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49

So that means you are a non purist, since it doesn’t violate rules 1 or 2 or both of them? :open_mouth::flushed:

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50

wait
that’s some sneaky loophole you got there
alright
rule 4.
Don’t break/mutilate pieces unless they are already broken/mutilated.

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51
  1. always listen to music while building, preferably Imagine Dragons or X Ambassadors.
  2. ABSOLUTELY no Bohrok fangs
  3. If you need to swear, swear in matoran
  4. Try not to use Pikari nuva mistika
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52

no painting pieces.
no 3d-printed masks.
do not make sus female mocs.
do not cut pieces.

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53

why exactly

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54

Because it looks weird to me

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55

I love it, but I definitely feel like it looks like a Makuta would wear it rather than a Toa

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56

DATS DA WORD I WAS LOOKIN FOR: IMMORAL

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57

it just reminds me of @alieraah

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58

  1. Don’t purposefully damage pieces, but if a piece is already tarnished, try to use it somewhere so it isn’t wasted

  2. Anything built must have a decent level of sturdiness and poseability

  3. When making a bonkle, try to make it canon-compliant. If it doesn’t fit into G1 canon, throw it into the HF universe

  4. When making a vehicle, make sure it can accommodate at least 2 people. I dunno, it just makes me sad whenever there’s just one driver who’s got nobody else to talk to.

Those are just my personal guidelines. If you want to hot-glue metru canister bobs to your moc, I won’t try to stop ya.

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59
  1. Don’t make things complicated for the sake of them being complicated

yeah that’s basically it

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61

yeah I know

I really don’t care what I do with a moc if it looks good.

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62

I’ve always been torn on using legendary masks like the Avohkii (I think that’s how its spelled) in mocs that are not my interpretations of the canon characters that used them like Takanuva for instance, or Mata Nui/Toa Ignika for the Ignika.

In terms of actual rules, I hate using rubber bands for anything that doesn’t use a play feature. In my builds, if a sub construction can’t hold itself together without extra reinforcement I don’t like using it.

I also try to make as many of my mocs as possible look like they could have been official lego Bionicle sets. Very expensive ones, but still in line with those basic design principles, like having a standard size variation for non-titan characters(usually Inika size build).

And I don’t like modifying pieces like cutting or gluing, and personally since I don’t have a huge array pieces at my disposal and I tend to reuse pieces I don’t like coloring them either. Now that I know how to use BrickLink though that may change in the future. What a miracle of the internet that website is.

5 Likes