does anybody have ideas for metru shoulders that allow for articulation, yet have a narrow (even narrow-ish) shoulder width?
Never tried this, but you could use the shoulders as intended inside a thigh bone, and have the other side of the thigh bone have a 2x axle and ball joint. Idk how well that’d do with articulation tho.
Could you get a picture or word that differently? Im having a hard time visualizing what you mean.
oh, and also because I didnt mention it above: I am trying to retain the gear function (I just put a Technic ball piece on the axle from the gearbox)
I could, but my suggestion doesn’t work if you want to retain the gear. Another option is the upper arms on this MOC. If you don’t mind stressing the pieces and limiting articulation a bit, I believe it works with the original thigh piece instead of the two pieces WCP uses.
I might try that. I dont have any spare metru shoulder armor, but I could probably find an alternative
Maybe something like this?
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Anyone have any suggestions for custom heads for Hordika/Inika masks?
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I’m bringing this back for some help with a stability check.
I’m working on an entry for a future Canon Contest, and I’ve found myself using this connection:
The idea is that this would be a shoulder joint that attaches as such:
I’ve already tested it with my own parts, and it seems to work pretty well, but I’d like to know if other people have the same success (especially given the stability issues that the last two Canon Contest winners have had).
If anyone can build this with their own parts, would you say the shoulder joint holds up good enough? Or does it fall apart when you try and pose it?
(Also, I know I could use a 3 axle and a ball joint with a through-hole; I’ve already got that lined up as a backup, but the through-hole ball doesn’t come in the colour I want. I’m hoping that the solid ball will be stable enough.)
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Yeah, the grip strength on solid balls is notoriously variable. The ones actually produced when Bionicle was around have remarkably loose axle connections, and should never really be used to hold up any weight, whereas the later ones hold up just fine and have even sturdier connections than the hollow ones.
Luckily, coloured balls only really started appearing after Bionicle’s end, but I know for a fact that red, lime and old light grey balls were produced earlier.
A good way to tell the old loose ones from the newer sturdy ones is the finish: old balls were produced with a matte finish that generally matched the texture of all masks from 2003 onwards, while the later ones are noticeably shinier and more closely match the texture of regular bricks.
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Sweet.
I intend to use dark blue ones, which only came out in 2021, so I should be good.
I’m still a little concerned about the fact that the axle won’t be going fully into one of the balls, but it at least sounds like my test wasn’t just a fluke.
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Can you use those balls with a hole in the middle? you could put longer piece through them then. it will certainly not fall
and use these. they do not prevent movement.
That’s… already been addressed.
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Face palm.
When I quickread the text I tought he meant regular ball didn’t come in that colour.
My bad
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I’m bringing this back again, and for the exact same upper arm, though the design has been significantly updated:
The issue that stumped me on this design for so long is the fact that the ball, as well as the thin 3L and 4L liftarms, could rotate about the medium blue Technic connector. To prevent this, the lime liftarm must connect to the socket piece. However, the connection must also be completely flush; I can’t just use a 2L axle as shown below:
My current solution that I devised months ago, and that was used in my Tuyet MOC that I shared here, is to use a 2L rigid 3mm tube, since it can pass through the “barrier” between the axle holes in the socket:
However, the flexibility of the part, as well as the small number available on BrickLink, make me hesitant to use this solution in a Canon Contest entry if there is a better way.
Today, I might have thought of that batter way: the relatively new minifigure wand piece:
And that brings me to the point of this post: would this wand solution actually work? I don’t have access to my parts right now to test it myself, nor do I even have any wands.
My greatest concern is that the “ball” of the wand might not form a stable enough connection with the axle hole of the lime liftarm, or that it might have a tiny amount of wiggle. Are these concerns legitimate, or does the solution work?
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No clue about the wand, but irl, the flextube connection would not only be incredbily difficult to construct, but would likely ruin the flextube forever after.
Yes it does work, but I would recommend to turn the ball in a way that the edges show up kinda like this:
otherwise it damages the piece.
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I’m trying to make a frame for Chibi’s that can pack in as much detail as possible in Stud.io. (I’m addicted to Chibi’s…) any tips?
@Gringat would be welcome, seeing as how he made about 50,000 Chibi’s.
(It’s called exaggeration)
None of my chibis have the same frame, lol
they’re bundles of random parts based on whatever weird seed part I find most interesting
I’m afraid I can’t help too much with a standardised frame for them
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Hiya everyone
as we all know the canon contests have met their end. yet i still want to show my mocs and headcanon models, i intend to enter this into Ducbricks’es contests
however i am running into a problem concerning my chiara model and that is
i cant figure out a good and unique leg design. also ignore the colors those are just place holders.
Any ideas?
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Did-did you j-just…
CUT a PIECE?!