I don’t think that would be too difficult, you probably wouldn’t even have to cut anything. Since the two pieces meet in the middle, you could sew a few points together (Both ends, and one in between) put the hood on to see where things line up. Mark where the horn sticks through, and just don’t see that spot shut
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Decided to add red to the edges of the cloak. One side done so far. A lengthy process and there’s much room for improvement in the stitching… Gonna have to see if I can get the other side to look better. Though if not looking too closely, it gets the job done, I think.
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Love it!
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Lookin’ shnazzy
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all your custom heads are really cool, I feel your torsos are bit t-shaped at times. I used to tinker around with a bunch of heads in the past but then fell into the custom masks trap now I have many wips, now I want to try again, you inspired me. Also keep the rakhshi head and spike for you krika’s upper arms, it adds a nice tapering effect, although please make his shoulders about 2l wider on each side to accommodate for the larger custom head and to adhere to the broad shouldered yet lanky look of the set.
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Thank you, glad to inspire!
For Krika you are a few months too late, unfortunately. 
The trouble with wide shoulders, which is why I rarely even go for Inika-build width is twofold:
a) unless doing custom hips (which I am myself not fond of), it will make torsos look either even more T-shaped or triangular.
b) designing a chest piece becomes more difficult the more area you have to cover. I usually prefer single-piece chestplates, and those tend to not be super broad.
There’s a third point, too, which I guess hinges on personal taste - very braod shoulders tend to look a bit freaky on humanoid builds in my eyes. But these are of course not humans but Bionicle characters, so making them look “freaky” is absolutely valid if one desires.
As to the T-shaped torsos you addressed - I think there’s only so much to be done for humanoid builds in my building style which doesn’t incorporate a lot of system pieces and places value on secure attachment.
The problem I see more and more is rather “flat top syndrome” which is created by the angular nature of technic pieces combined with narrow shoulders. There’s simply no room most of the time to have some shoulder-neck gradient. I’m trying to mask it as well as possible, but if I’d want to fix it, I’d have to consider differnt ways to attach shoulder joints. Possibly at an angle. Which then becomes also a question of poseability and stability, especially on the scale I’m normally working at.
And if you want to try building custom heads yourself, maybe three tips I can give:
- Keep in mind that as with everything, designing custom heads is a process of learning/training. Looking back at my first custom heads, they hardly did more than get the job done.
- If you are building with physical pieces, make sure to accumlate a large variety of small pieces in various colours. Helps with experimenting with differnt options.
- For me it usually works best to pick a piece/a build made from a few pieces for which I have an idea where to place it on the head. Starting from that, one can then construct the rest of the head around it.
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Second side turned out a little bit better.
Now time to see about adding a hood…
Also kinda considering whether to revisit the torso to add hip articulation…
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Waist articulation incorporated (and I remember again now why I don’t use it normally - not just because I only have one design, but also because the joint is too weak to be comfortable on this scale - it just about has enough friction to work).
And while I was at it I also redid the back of the upper legs for better freedom of articulation on the hip joints and that 90° knee bend I always try to achieve.
Noticing that a polearm does not work particularly well with a wide cloak, though. A single-handed weapon would probably work better. Though I still like the look of this. Turned it into more of a Naginata now.
Thoughts?
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Looks pretty cool!
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If you don’t mind me asking, what design did you use for the waist?
Also I feel like the polearm can work, maybe just shorten it slightly or just have the moc hold the polearm more towards the end, so the back of it doesn’t hit the cloak
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A studio file including the waist design is linked in my Lariska topic. As said, I only have that one design 
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Hm… obviously not finished, but I guess this will be the general idea for the hood.
Should maybe have made it a bit wider, then again once I fix the holes for the horns, there will be a little more room again. Probably will also need to attach a third piece for the forehead in order to space out the middle horn.
And as you can see, something while sewing on the hood messed up how the cape falls on the left. Need to fix that, too, though I think I have a rough idea how.
@MysteryMuffin Shall I proceed with the hood or rather detach it again?
Other people’s opinions are of course also welcome.
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I like what I see so far, I have no issue with it being continued.
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He looks incredible! the cape gives off a spooky count Dracula vibe and that head is crazy good! I think I read its custom, and crooked but I have to look real hard before I notice anything. I’d say well done!! Does this Makuta have a name?
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Yes:
Looks pretty nice thus far. The hood looks really good on her.
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Turned out the hood was too small, so I made a new one. Looking promising so far now, but I need to redo the piece on the forehead. That ended up being so small that it was just barely possible to sew, and it shows. Also it’s a bit small, maybe. What do you think of it being red? Lining the entirety of the hood I don’t think would look good, but having that colour accent there…
Currently, the new plan would be something along these lines:
Thoughts?
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I’m having a hard time seeing how far forward it goes. Could you get a side angle?
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Goes about as far forward as possible without making the forehead part longer - which I think I would attempt. At least to get a little more length. Would need to make it more stiff, too, though…
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I think you should keep the lining, the pop of color would make the moc look less monochromatic
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