Alright, but I do have one more question. How did you get a job at Lego?
I studied Industrial Design, while never quitting building with LEGO, until I managed to land an internship that resulted in a full-time job!
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Thank you for answering us. My guess for K-2SO is that since it belongs to a licensed theme, Lego had to deviate from their building methods, to make the set look more accurate to the movie version. What do you think?
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That is my current suspicion as well, I just donāt want to send any guesses or unconfirmed info on to the internet.
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We know that working under a licensed project can be more difficult than working under a free-styled project such as Bionicle where imagination gets much more space and freedom.
I think you should probably create an āask toothdominoesā thread to keep this one on-topic but thatās something the staff members should decide on, and thatās probably a bit of a minimodding on my part, Iām sorry.
@Ekimu, the movie K-2SO doesnāt seem to feature any red bits on his forearms, so thatās probably not the reason for the red pins being there.
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This is just my and @toothdominoesās current suspicion but if you have any better explanation for it, then go ahead and share with us.
My guess is that the red axles are used for vertical connections whereas black axles are used for horizontal connections (concerning K2SO)
Like you pointed out before, this is probably not a great idea. If it is fine with the mods, I will continue doing what I do now, clarifying where I can.
Itās a bit of a shame because there are some questions Iād like to ask but they certainly donāt belong here.
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Anyway this is getting more and more off topic. If someone wants to create a topic for this, move these last posts to that.
Otherwise Iām going to have to end discussion unrelated to the yellow pins here.
Interesting, thanks for clearing that up. It does make sense when you put it that way. Though I understand why LEGO does it, I still canāt totally agree with the reasoning myself :P. It wasnāt that difficult for me as a kid to tell the difference between a + shaped hole and an O shaped hole. Itās kind of like those those block toys you give young toddlers to learn shapes :P.
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I understand where you are coming from, but imagine if a block had a different shape on either side and the box had multiple slots for each shape to go. Again, sometimes it goes a bit far, but this is how we ensure that anyone can build the models, regardless of whether it is their first or 50th model.
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I was wondring what lead to the creation of this new 3 long axle (left) when its basically the one on the right without the stud? It seems very unecessary to meā¦
Also, how do you guys decide on what colour the axle should be?
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The stop on the cross axle on the left is the kind that fits within the recess of a technic hole, allowing you to build in the module right next to it. Using the one on the right would result in having a stud in the way.
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Again, I understand where theyāre coming from. Itās just it worked fine for me and so many other 5 year olds back in the day I never really saw the need for change. I still remember building the kikanalo on my fifth birthday, which was my first build of larger size. I never really had an issue differentiating the pins at all. The only issues I really ever had was figuring out how far down the longer beam pieces I needed to insert the pin because Iād often lose count of the holes :P.
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Right, and as a fan coming into the company, I had the exact same mindset. However, the fact that you have stuck around for all these years is an indication that you are a highly involved user. Maybe it is just me, but I remember from my childhood how many of the Toa Mata, Nuva and Metru from my friends were built incorrectly. These were kids who were not as invested in the system as you and me. We want to make sure that no matter how invested you are, your model will preform like intended and is built like the models we did our extensive quality testing on, to prevent disappointment.
As far as counting goes, these days our models have been optimized in such a way that the user doesnāt need to count. Both in system and technic, we use spacer elements and seemingly useless elements in between necessary ones to make sure the critical ones are placed correctly.
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I actually appreciate the color coding in principle, however I find the execution questionable, if I had been in charge I would have gone with less vibrant colors, so they would still be differentiated but be less of an eyesore to us afols.
A large part of recognizing a part is finding it in a pile of pieces. This is why bag (or collection of bags with the same number) is optimized to not have parts that look similar in the same color, and smaller ones often have bright colors that jump out at you. This is why, for example, some of the technic pieces on Storm Beastās back are grey. Pieces that would look much better in black. These rules loosen up substantially when the age-mark of a set goes up.
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Apart from being vibrant colors, can you say what else goes into determining what color an axle or pin should be? Being a Graphic Designer, Iām curious to know how itās selected. 
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